[3 minute read]
The men's Fall 2025 shows wrapped up in Paris last weekend. Men's is never quite as fun as women's, but over the last decade or so it has developed its own identity. I pulled a few collection highlights below.
PRADA
Raf Simons is probably my favorite and most personally influential designer (see 2001 Riot Riot Riot & 2002 Virginia Creeper).
It was a bummer when Raf shuttered his namesake brand, but in 2020, he joined Prada as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada, which has been great. Also, more people should dress like Miuccia.
WILLY CHAVARRIA
I shared the same sales showroom with Willy Chavarria for a few years before he won the CFDA American Menswear Designer of the Year Award in ‘23 and ‘24, cementing his status as a (very well-deserved) fashion darling. Willy is a Mexican-American designer who unapologetically champions marginalized communities and social justice. This marks his first show in Paris, and he just announced his apparel collab with Kendrick Lamar for the Super Bowl. He’s definitely a guy to root for.
SSSTEIN
Kiichiro Asakawa is a Japanese fashion designer who founded the brand Ssstein in 2016. He won the Fashion Prize of Tokyo and his Fall 2025 show is his first in Paris. Loro Piana (cc Succession) is the poster child for quiet luxury (a term and subsegment I hate), but SSStein, another so-called quiet luxury brand, is much more interesting IMO. High quality fabrics, timeless pieces, and layers for days. What more could you want?
MARTINE ROSE
Martine Rose is a British-Jamaican fashion designer recognized for her subversive menswear that is really unisex-wear. For Fall 2025, she was inspired by London's 1970s and '80s fashion markets and market workers. This is her second season outfitting male models with prosthetic penis noses — her commentary on traditional beauty standards and gender norms.
In her own words — “I think that I always want to break down the formality and pretension of clothes, somehow, There’s a playfulness, a freedom of expression I yearn for. A feeling you should be who you want to be. I feel that’s more essential than ever now. Because it can all feel so boring.”
FURSAC BY GAUTHIER BORSARELLO
I’ve known Gauthier Borsarello for many years as the guy shipping boxes of high-quality U.S. vintage clothing to his shop in Paris, where he meticulously curated and merchandised it. He recently became the creative director for Fursac so I was curious to see his first collection. The show didn’t blow my mind, but his love for American vintage style was clearly on display.
ACNE
I lost interest in Acne a few+ years ago, but this season feels very Tyler Durden-esque, which is fun. Also check out Stockholm Surfboard Club — another brand founded by Jonny Johansson and a couple other Acne alums.
IF IT’S NOT COOL, JUST ADD ICE!